3 Tips to Make a Professional-Quality Pencil Skirt

Image: J.Crew No. 2 Pencil Skirt

As personal stylists, Nat and I often recommend our clients buy pencil skirts off the rack and have them tailored to fit perfectly (if needed). But as a commercial stylist, knowing how to sew and fit iconic shapes is crucial to a seamless day of shooting. My love for this ultra-feminine silhouette is what led me to challenge myself with the task of making a pencil skirt. I tore an inspiration page out of my latest J.Crew catalog and thought, "This should be simple!"  And to be honest, it wasn't that hard. But I also realized the only way to make this skirt look professional is to focus on the details.  

Here are 3 Tips to Make a Professional-Quality Pencil Skirt:

• Start with the best tools: I chose to use a durable cotton twill fabric from Mood Fabrics and a pattern from my vintage collection. Also, my mother once told me, "Protect your sewing shears with your life." Thus, I only use Gingher Sewing Shears that come with a holster and case.  

• Don't neglect your notions: Pick thread and an invisible zipper that match the color of your fabric.  As a rule of thumb, invisible zippers are better for back closures. I know you may be tempted to add a splash of color, but I would advise you try and avoid drawing attention to your derriere. Save the color for your seam binding.

• If the skirt doesn't fit, refit: When my skirt seemed to be more suited for Christina Hendricks a la Mad Men instead of Dorothy Dandridge a la Carmen Jones, I refitted the garment to my shape with pins and a little help from a friend. Patterns don't always make for a perfect fit, so don't feel bad if you have to repeat this step. Having a garment that is tailored to perfection is worth the extra time and effort. 

You can see the finished product at our recent French hen photo shoot here.

drop-waist divas

 

   DVF, $485

Drop-waist dresses were first popularized in the Roaring Twenties when women were ready to ditch their restrictive dresses and shake their flapper fringe in comfort and style. They gained popularity again in the 60s (shout out to my girl Twiggy) and currently are back with a vengeance with designers like Marchesa, Proenza Schuler, and Moschino showcasing them on the fall 2012 runway. 

The traditional style works best for taller and slender women with minimal curves, but let's be honest, that only includes a small percentage of the population. So here are some tips for different body types: 

Topshop, $84 (also available in petite)

 Petite

—Make sure the dress ends above your knee, especially if it's a shift dress (like the one above). 

—Or you can look for a more fitted silhouette that cuts in at your natural waist and that can be worn with a skinny belt. A drop waist can visually shorten your legs, and this will counter that.
—Pair the dress with a high-heel shoe or at least a pointy-toe flat. No ballet flats!  

 ASOS SALON, $255.45

 Pear shaped

—Find a dress in which the waist hits above your hips and not at the widest part. 

—Make sure the skirt does not have a lot of extra volume. A simple A-line would be most flattering.

—To create balance to your figure, look for a dress with a strong shoulder or shoulder details like epaulets or one that looks great with a blazer.

—Use rules of color, and find a dress with a darker-colored skirt with a lighter color on top. 

--Nat

packing 101

August means the end of summer, which also means squeezing in final vacations before the whirlwind that is fall begins. Packing for a trip can be a daunting task, and I admit that I used to be a notorious over-packer. However, many vacations later, I have learned the art of efficiently packing.

I recently took a weeklong trip to the beautiful Prince Edward Island and fit everything I needed into a a carry-on bag—with plenty of room to spare for souvenirs!

--Nat

Here's how it's done:

1. Start with shoes. For a week, I recommend packing no more than three pairs. In this instance, I packed two pairs of comfortable flats for day and a pair of versatile black pumps for evenings. 

 2. Pick bottoms that can be paired with multiple tops. I chose a basic black skirt and 2 pairs of jeans (one skinny leg and one straight leg). 

3. Choose versatile layering pieces. PEI tends to get chilly, so I opted to bring 1 blazer and 2 lightweight cardigans that can be easily paired with all of my bottoms and a variety of tops. 

4. Maximize style with thin tops and accessories. Thin blouses and sweaters take up very little space and can easily be dressed up or down. And accessories help showcase your style (without taking up suitcase space). For day, I wore my tops alone or layered with a cardigan and jeans/skirt and flats. For evening, I threw on my blazer and heels to create a nicer look for smart-casual dinners. 

5. Pack 1 wrinkle-resistant, versatile dress. You never want to be underprepared, so throw in a drew that takes up minimal space, can be paired with a pair of shoes you already packed, and would be appropriate for almost any dressier occasion. 

maxi dresses for all

Maxi dresses are a great option this season for both day and evening wear. And no matter what your size or proportions are, you can wear them. Promise! Going super long is something every lady can pull off this season.

Petite Women

• Lengthen and elongate your figure with a V neckline
• For some added height, add a heel or wedge
• To avoid looking swallowed by the dress, make sure you have a more structured silhouette. Opt for a dress that either hugs well on your body or one that has a defined waist, such as an empire. You can also wrap a belt around the thinnest part of your torso to cinch in and give shape to a flowy dress. 
• Shy away from horizontal and large prints, as they will dominate your small figure. 

Plus-size Women

• While you can easily pull off medium to large prints, dark solid colors like navy, olive, and black can also slim you down 
• Long dresses work well with this frame as it conceals large legs and waist
• If you have a wide or big bust, look for a maxi dress that has a thick strap or halter top
• Fitted (but not clingy) maxi dresses are your friends. Anything too loose will just make you appear boxy or bigger
• Look for dresses that have a v-neck, as they will help create a vertical line down your body
• Bring out your natural waistline by accessorizing with a colored belt around the thinnest part of your waist

--C

eye appeal

(Photo: Kelly Shimoda for NYT)

Looking fabulous for you holiday parties doesn’t stop with a great blouse. Amp up your look with sexy smoky eyes. And we’re not talking the harsh black smoky eyes you attempted in high school.

Instead opt for this modern and user-friendly version.

Here’s how to get the look.

one blazer, three occasions

Menswear-inspired blazers are versatile and work for any body type, making them a great investment piece. These blazers are cut longer than traditional women’s suiting and can have a boxy silhouette, so make sure you pick a blazer that cuts in at the waist. Most major department stores carry a variety of blazers at various price points. Large specialty stores like J.Crew and the Gap also have some great options.

Here are some tips for making the look work for all occasions.

 Casual

Instead of the usual cardigan, wear a blazer (with rolled sleeves) over your T-shirts, v-neck sweaters, or camisoles. Pair that with jeans and flats or boots, and you have instantly updated your everyday style without compromising your comfort.

Work

Take a break from your standard work suit by wearing a menswear-inspired blazer with a pencil skirt or trousers. You can further update your work outfits by breaking up your neutrals (e.g., wear a black blazer with gray bottoms). Add interest to the outfit by pairing your blazer with a blouse that has pattern, color, or sheen and adding some jewelry.

Evening

Add edge to your look by adding your blazer to an ultra-feminine dress. If it is a more casual date night, throw on your blazer with a flowy blouse, dark jeans, and heels.

cinch your waist

I’m the biggest advocate of belts! Whether it’s through simple ribbon or chunky leather, belts can be used to accessorize and fill in that missing piece to any outfit. And with these cold winter months ahead, belting chunky sweaters and dresses is a must. Here a few loose guidelines that will help you transform your outfits.

—Do not shy away from belts if your tummy is your trouble area. In fact, embrace this accessory! Cinch a thick belt right above the waist and instantly give the impression of a narrower, hour-glass figure.

—If you have a skinny frame, thick, boxy belts might swallow your torso. Instead, opt for a mid- to skinny-width belt to keep your body in proportion.

—Rummage through your closet for any old, shapeless dresses or blouses and make them current by adding a belt of any width.

—Remember that you don’t have to match your belt to your shoes—get creative when pairing the two for a new and exciting combo.

—Layers, layer, layers! Add a jacket or cardigan over a top with any belt and add an interesting textural dimension to your outfit.

--C

sprucing up your office wear

Office attire for women doesn’t have to equal boring. While there are guidelines for appropriate business dress, here are a few quick tips to give your work clothes personality:

1. Instead of your standard button-up work shirt, pair your suits with blouses or camisoles that have visual interest—a pattern, pop of color, texture, or sheen.

2. Add jewelry.

3. Stray from your standard black pump and wear a shoe in a color or a subtle animal print.

4. Break up your suits. For example, pair your black jacket with a gray trouser with a subtle pattern.  Or wear your pencil skirt with a blouse and cardigan.

--Nat

faux fur

We’re starting off our Trend Tuesday posts with a tricky one. We love faux fur, and it can look very luxurious without breaking the bank. But it can be easy to miss the mark with this trend. However, when you get it right, it’s fabulous!

Here are some tips on making it work:

—Stick to a natural-looking, neutral-colored fur. Avoid bright, harsh prints like leopard or zebra.

—Try a faux fur vest or cropped coat.

—Keep the overall look simple. Don’t create competing looks by adding flashy patterns, sequins, or anything else that would make the overall look too busy. Try a vest or coat with skinny jeans, boots, and a neutral top.

We love how Kim Kardashian and Rachel Zoe are rocking the looks: